Where's the Beef?

You won't find any at Valentine's - just great vegetarian fare that blows the doors off the competition

The housemade melon sorbet ($3.75), on the other hand, was sublime. It reached the table as a single scoop that looked like a snowball, but its cantaloupe taste was too fine and pure to have been commercially made. (Mass-produced sorbets are sweet and syrupy, like a soft drink that's been frozen.) It was also -- no small consideration -- low calorie and no fat.

As we left, the floppy-eared dog was wagging his tail excitedly as his owners, standing in the door, told the maitre d' that they'd just had the best vegetarian meal ever.

"I hope you enjoyed your meal," the maitre d' said to me.
The dog looked at me again, tail still wagging. Do you know where Valentine is? he seemed to be asking.

"Yes," I said.
Valentine's, 1793 Church, S.F., 285-2257; Wed-Fri 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m.; Wed-Thurs 5:30-9:30 p.m.; Fri 5:30-10 p.m.; Sat-Sun 8 a.m.-3:30 p.m. & 6-10 p.m.

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