Oriental to Occidental

The twain meet at Orocco, a supper club for the '90s

The sampler souffles ($8) for dessert were three: chocolate, pistachio, and pineapple. As a chocolate addict, I was surprised to find that I liked the pineapple (the healthy choice?) most of all. The fruit's flavor, enhanced by creme anglaise, was pure and intense. The chocolate, on the other hand, was the weakest of the lot, despite coffee creme anglaise. All three souffles were, under their crusty caps, sensually warm and tender.

By now the band had struck it up, on a vaguely Manhattan Transfer-ish note. Jazz -- especially with vocals -- pulses and tilts, so that you barely notice it one moment and are unexpectedly moved by it the next. For a long while I sat there just listening -- and marveling at a graceful rebirth of the supper club.

Orocco, 3565 Geary Blvd., S.F., 387-8788. Mon-Thurs 6-10:30 p.m.; Fri-Sun 6 p.m.-midnight.

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