Pies in the Sky

Goat Hill Pizza gives you all you can eat -- and a city view to top it off

In any group of diners, however, there's always at least one who's interested in dessert. Perhaps our sweet tooth had visions of flourless chocolate cake or a strawberry sundae. If so, he was disappointed. When he asked our server about dessert, eyes shining with hope, she replied: "Flan."

Perfect, I thought, no thanks! There would be no agonizing choice to make, or avoid. If it's genius to turn pizza into a dim sum event, it's also genius not to offer much in the way of a sweet finale. After such pleasurably massive carbo-loading, the very thought of dessert left me slightly queasy. The true end to the meal was stepping back into the cool street, where a damp sea breeze blew gently up the hill, promising rain and deep, happy sleep.

Goat Hill Pizza, 300 Connecticut, S.F., 641-1440. Open daily 11:30 a.m.-10:30 p.m.

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