Cocoa Nuts

At Alfred Schilling, there's no escape from chocolate

Dessert, so often overkill, is mandatory at Alfred Schilling. My friend, having a choice, picked the banana mousse ($3), an oblong sponge cake striped with chocolate and hollowed out to accommodate a large dollop of banana mousse. On top: fanciful twistings of dark chocolate spaghetti. The whole thing tasted like banana cream pie.

The Willy Wonka dessert was chocolate Medusa, a chocolate-orange ganache whose flavor was deep and subtle. It sounded and was rich, but the size of the portion was just right: more than a tease, but not so large as to cause distress. I have slowly been learning the discipline of tasting desserts rather than eating them, but I didn't regret the indulgence of polishing off the Medusa. At Alfred Schilling, restraint of that sort would be heresy.

Alfred Schilling, 1695 Market, S.F., 431-8447. Mon 7 a.m.-7 p.m.; Tues-Sun 7 a.m.-10 p.m.

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