A Little Night Music

Cole Valley's Zazie is a simple cafe by day, a chic bistro after sunset

The meat in the roast-pork sandwich ($5.95) was well-done but still tasty, and accented by pear slices that made a nice match with the pork's deep sweetness. The bread -- a crusty country loaf -- would have made good toast, but it was too thick and chewy for a proper sandwich, and the crust amounted to a kind of obstacle course.

Also utterly cooked through was the grilled tuna in the salade nicoise ($7.50), a large bed of greens laced with peppers, tomatoes, and anchovies, an optional flourish that seemed to give pleasure equally to the Mystery Writer and to our server. She clearly regarded the salty little fish as essential to a proper salade nicoise.

Zazie has a kind of split personality: a simple neighborhood cafe by day, a chic bistro by night, when, amid the champagne sounds of live music, the menu steps up toward the sublime. Then it's worth the trip.

Zazie, at 941 Cole, serves breakfast daily 8 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. and lunch 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. There's a weekend brunch from 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. Dinner is served Monday through Thursday from 6 to 9:30 p.m., and Friday and Saturday from 6 until 10 p.m. On Sunday evening Zazie serves light suppers and tapas from 5:30 to 9:30 p.m. Call 564-5332.

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