Street Smart

All roads lead to Boulevard

Boulevard's desserts have always been visual extravaganzas. The fig and blackberry tartlet ($6.50) arrived under a trellis of dark chocolate filaments and was filled with, besides the fruit, chocolate ganache (mostly at the bottom) and an aromatic peppermint custard. And the apple Napoleon ($6.50) was like a slice of tarte tatin in the shape of a box, with an accompanying scoop of caramel ice cream.

I can't think of a restaurant in the city I like more than Boulevard. Whenever visitors ask me where they should go for the real local thing, or friends celebrating a special occasion want a recommendation, it's the name that springs immediately to mind. Like all top-drawer eateries, it's pricey, but it's also the sort of place that makes you feel it's been money well spent.

Boulevard, at 1 Mission, serves lunch weekdays from 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m., and a bistro menu from 2:30 to 5:15 p.m. It's open for dinner every night from 5:30 to 10:30 p.m. Call 543-6084.

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