Fillmore Best

The rest of the dessert menu oozes with comfort: bread pudding with creme anglaise ($6); chocolate cake ($6); creme caramel ($6). Another entrant, the fresh fruit tart ($6), sports a deliciously buttery crisp-tender shortbread crust and a filling of strawberries and blackberries that, while not absolutely ripe (or even, perhaps, fresh), are still sweet enough to contrast nicely with their soothing creme fraiche base. But the sampler of three gelati ($6), made in-house, is an actionable misnomer: These pallid ices bear little resemblance to the extra-dense, dangerously creamy, flavor-bursting confections that make a trip to Florence so worthwhile. The mocha rum gelato is the best of them; the other two are flavorless, nondescript, and impossible to identify except by color.

There's a cheering, bubbly element to Florio that none of my carping will dampen. It's a splendid place for a lively meal enjoyed among friends who can agree on a nice bottle of wine and a shared delight in good food (especially lobster bisque, mushroom ragout, bouillabaisse, pungent cheeses, and fruit tarts). Loosen your Sulka, pick up the tab, and sip a Grey Goose, up, with a twist. This is, after all, the 1900 block of Fillmore.

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