Eclectic Company

The dessert menu is not divided into categories; if you've been ordering by the numbers so far, you're on your own.

Here's a tip, though. The dessert course at Gordon's includes one of the greatest inventions of Western civilization: the doughnut plate. Five kinds of deep-fried dough desserts, served hot and sugary, are a consummation devoutly to be wished -- in addition to the standard doughnut material, there are tart little apricot turnovers, fried custard, and amazing funnel cakes. At $7.50, the plate is ideal for sharing. The other desserts aren't as spectacular, though the berry creme brulee tart ($6) and the minty frozen grasshopper souffle ($6) are both well worth ordering. The S'more Alaskan ($6) is a strange beast, a ball of chocolate mousse wrapped in a marshmallow fleece -- no doubt an International effort -- while the warm Scharffen Berger chocolate cake ($6) must be considered a Local Favorite.

Gordon's is a hodgepodge, but proudly so. Even the most economical attempt to parse the cuisine ends back where the menu starts -- with five different classes -- and those classes are broad. As I've suggested, the best approach for a party dining here is to order a number of dishes and share them all. There are quite a few items on the menu of which a whole serving is too much for one person; sharing eliminates this redundancy and makes for an extremely interesting meal.

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