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Side Dish 

Wednesday, Jul 14 1999
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Hip Replacement
One of Harry's favorite sections of the Sunday paper -- after the obits and Zippy the Pinhead, of course -- is the classifieds. The small print cries out with opportunity, desire, and desperation in an endless litany of obscure abbreviations. And sometimes, Harry even uncovers something of interest. The latest "Businesses for Sale" page reveals that for the low, low price of $375K you can be the proud owner of the father of retro Mission chic -- Bruno's. Kitchen, dining room, two bars, and two stages. Comes complete with a well-heeled crowd and cool light fixtures. Now if we can just figure out how to make "hip" profitable ....

Let Them Eat Ham & Cheese
Far be it from me to jump on the "make-fun-of-Jon-Carroll-even-though-he's-such-a-nice-guy" bandwagon. But I couldn't help but notice a sweet little column last week wherein Mr. Carroll averred that only one spot in the city is bold enough to serve the hallowed croque-monsieur. Well, let me add my voice to those of other devoted readers who beg to differ. My fave version of the French artery clogger is found at Boulangerie on Pine Street.

And what better time to embark on your own hunt than today -- Bastille Day? Take off your top, wrap yourself in the tricolor, and march through the streets until you reach the Hyde Street Bistro, Plouf, and Cafe Bastille in Belden Alley, Clementine on Clement, or Cafe Claude on Claude Lane. All of these gems are offering prix fixe menus in celebration. Zut alors!

Nothing Like a Dame
Dame, a restaurant -- and a favorite with the motley crowds who like to pop in for dinner or a nice brunch -- is changing hands and continents. Look for a new French place in the no man's land between Zuni and Mecca. Not to jinx anyone, but even critical darling Carta seems to barely eke out a profit down in the zone. All right, there is It's Tops -- but that's just the exception that proves the rule.

King Me
Had a fun time at the Serrano Hotel opening. The weather was perfect for a giant game of street checkers: Glide's Cecil Williams and Serrano GM John Turner turned Taylor Street into a checkerboard and employed children from Glide Memorial as playing pieces. The willing kids had a gas leapfrogging around the street as part of the Serrano's fund-raising efforts for the Tenderloin After School Program. The parties that evening were more fun and games -- which happens to be the hotel's theme. Blues Traveler were the first celebs to stay at this newest of the Kimpton Hotels during their Rainforest Action Network benefit appearance at the Warfield. The ground-floor restaurant should be open in the fall.

Eavesdropping
Here's what my friend over at Scoop had to say about me recently (Harry translates the bon mot into the language of love -- it's only appropriate): "Il est une mouche sur mon en graisse cul."

By Harry Coverte

Know something Harry doesn't? E-mail Coverte@aol.com and sweep the dirt out from under the rug.

About The Author

Harry Coverte

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