Cool World

When it comes to comfort food, nothing beats soft, dense, gooey bread pudding, particularly when it's made from brioche, and especially when it's accented with a compote of mixed berries ripe enough to have been plucked earlier that evening. (The white chocolate ice cream melting alongside is the final, gratifying touch.) At the other end of the dessert spectrum is the triple chocolate terrine, a gustatory expression of pure evil: dense, decadent devil's food cake layered with two shades of opulently rich chocolate ice cream, the whole set on a bed of chocolate-coconut meringue crust. Take me.

The restaurant's wine list, like its architecture, is designed to impress people, with a notable selection of red wines especially. The low-end options are just so-so, the high-ends very good, with markups to match: You'll have to spend some bucks for a good bottle. We concluded the evening in appropriate fashion -- tackling the imposing edifice of the Metreon Octoplex (or whatever it's called) in search of Kubrick's cool, precise, strangely mesmerizing Eyes Wide Shut. There's room for all kinds of art in the world, after all, especially when it tastes good.

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