A Maki Among Maki

Like many before me who've migrated to the city of St. Francis, I first hung my hat in the perpetually fogbound Sunset District, that unassuming neighborhood where the parking is ample and unending avenues slope gently toward the Pacific. Ah, those were the days -- way back in 1993, when the word "yuppie" conjured images of New York City in the '80s, and $350 a month got you a room with a view and a tremendous red Kool-Aid stain on the carpet.

I eventually fled inland in search of a hipper neighborhood and warmer climes (one image burned indelibly into my memory is of old folks shivering in their winter coats during the summer of 1994). But I still have fond recollections of that time in my life, when my roommate and I stayed up until 6 a.m. each night playing gin, everything about the city seemed new, and Peko Sushi (and Cocktails) on unpretentious Irving Street sat just a few blocks away.

The thing about Peko is that, in addition to serving fine sushi at three tables and a half-dozen seats at the counter, the place doubles as, well, I'll call it a regular bar, since on any given night you can find a handful of regulars sipping cocktails while a television set churns out keno numbers. Peko Sushi also features what has to be the city's most intriguing wallpaper, a 1970s-style depiction of a lush, green forest, which trails off toward the jukebox (which offers everything from Barbra Streisand to Rush) and the pool table (which is always available), which in turn shares space with a pair of well-maintained dartboards in Peko's cavernous back room.

Let the good times roll  --  at Peko Sushi.
Anthony Pidgeon
Let the good times roll -- at Peko Sushi.

Location Info

Map

Peko Sushi

1824 Irving
San Francisco, CA 94122

Category: Restaurant > Japanese

Region: Sunset (Outer)

Details

1824 Irving (at 20th Avenue), 564-7800. Open from 5 p.m. to midnight (bar open from 9 a.m. to 2 a.m.). Reservations not necessary. Parking: a piece of cake after 6 p.m. Muni: N Judah, 71. Wheelchair accessible. Noise level: pleasant, eclectic

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Some of the strangest things that ever happened to me in San Francisco happened in Peko Sushi -- karaoke night was always an adventure, and then there was the time two drunken Irishmen got in a brawl that ended after a few seconds because the combatants had grown too tired to continue (for those who don't like bar fights with their hamachi, I should point out that this was the only such incident I witnessed in some two dozen trips to Peko).

But the best thing about Peko is its undiscoveredness: Even my friend Bob, who lives a few blocks away, had never been there, a situation I remedied when, along with Bob's girlfriend, Alexa, we ventured down to Irving Street for what I promised would be an experience they would not soon forget.

Taking our pick of three empty tables, we scanned a menu that still contained one of my old Peko favorites -- unagi (broiled freshwater eel) over a bowl of rice ($7.95). While Alexa marveled at the neon green Belfast Sparkling Water clock over the bar and the fact that "the song from Cats" was playing on the jukebox, I got us started with a large sake ($6) and a sashimi appetizer ($6.95), three slices each of tuna and octopus, accompanied by thin, neatly arranged slivers of cucumber.

Since writing about nigiri (raw fish over a ball of sticky rice) would be a tad monotonous, I limited our order to one saba ($2.60) -- two huge pieces of savory mackerel -- as well as a nice tekka maki (tuna roll, $3.50) and a fiery Kamikaze Roll (spicy tuna and diced scallions, $3.95). Big deal, you say: I could get that stuff anywhere. And you're right. But what blew our minds -- and Peko always seems to blow your mind -- were the roll specials, delightfully innovative maki that were each served on a different-shaped black lacquer tray and carried out one at a time by a grand-matronly waitress who showed a particular concern over whether or not we were eating all our wasabi.

Before I go further, I should say that the lone chef at Peko Sushi is a master, his ingenuity in combining various ingredients rivaled only by the generousness of the portions, the beautiful presentation, and the epic names given to his creations. The Red Sun Roll ($9.95) was a monster, featuring spicy tuna on the inside and thick slices of fresh tuna on the outside, and came sprinkled with, alternately, tiny piles of scallions and tobiko (flying fish roe).

The Red Sun Roll was followed by the Hurricane Roll ($8.95) -- which arrived shortly after the jukebox switched from flamenco to what Alexa called "Italian restaurant music" -- fresh tuna and mango on the inside, fresh salmon (as opposed to smoked) on the outside, which in turn was draped diagonally with still more thin-sliced mango. Our eyes glowed with delight as we sampled this wondrous invention, which, in addition to providing a marvelous blend of -- how to say it? -- sweet and salmon, truly did look like a hurricane on some subliminal level, though how this effect was achieved I cannot say.

For our third maki, we indulged in a traditional Spider Roll ($7.95) -- soft- shell crab and avocado, coated with tobiko and the same sauce used on the restaurant's barbecued eel. The helpings of soft-shell crab were generous. The jukebox switched to Carole King. Bob lost a chopstick, prompting the following koan: What is the sound of one stick chopping? (A hungry man.) We ordered more sake just in time for the Dragon Roll ($9.95), which, like the Hurricane Roll, is reason in itself to visit Peko.

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