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The kitchen's aesthetic proclivities are most beautifully showcased in the lamb kabobs ($24), in which rapiers of tamarind-infused lamb cubes, grilled onions and whole sweet peppers are crossed with Fairbanksian élan over a fantastically crisp and imaginative spanikopita of spaghetti squash and a bed of soothing cilantro yogurt. But the tea-smoked salmon ($23) is the menu's best dish, a perfectly moist-crunchy filet barely dressed with a spicy soy vinaigrette and cushioned by a rich and memorable substitute for the ubiquitous mashed potato: mashed yucca and taro root.

Our desserts ($7 each, or three for $20) arrived on a big, beautifully arranged platter, all the better for communal munching. And such munching: a milk chocolate ganache biscuit bar with coconut sorbet and an addictive coconut-brittle wafer, a sort of over-the-top Twix bar; a napoleon of Scharffen Berger chocolate, fresh vanilla ice cream and blackberries marinated in sake; and, best of all, one of San Francisco's best and most unusual desserts, a frozen mousse of mascarpone cheese, ginger, and sugar pumpkin, bruléed on one side and served with equally bruléed fresh figs.

Anthony Pidgeon

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Eos Restaurant and Wine Salon

901 Cole
San Francisco, CA 94117

Category: Bars and Clubs

Region: Haight/ Fillmore

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Candlelight, Cool Jazz: Eos offers a dazzling selection of vintages.901 Cole (at Carl), 566-3063. Open Monday through Wednesday 5:30 to 11:30 p.m., Thursday through Saturday 5:30 p.m. to midnight and Sunday 5 to 10 p.m. Parking: difficult. Muni: N, 43. Noise level: lively downstairs, tranquil upstairs

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The wines are showcased every Wednesday from 6:30 to 8:30 p.m. in the form of Wine Flights, evenings devoted to particular regions or varietals with guest speakers and, of course, sipping galore. (The December 29 flight, a champagne extravaganza featuring Taittinger, Salon, and other breeds of bubbly, sounds particularly festive.) Each flight, which varies in price from $18-40, continues through the week sans speakers.

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