The kitchen's aesthetic proclivities are most beautifully showcased in the lamb kabobs ($24), in which rapiers of tamarind-infused lamb cubes, grilled onions and whole sweet peppers are crossed with Fairbanksian élan over a fantastically crisp and imaginative spanikopita of spaghetti squash and a bed of soothing cilantro yogurt. But the tea-smoked salmon ($23) is the menu's best dish, a perfectly moist-crunchy filet barely dressed with a spicy soy vinaigrette and cushioned by a rich and memorable substitute for the ubiquitous mashed potato: mashed yucca and taro root.

Our desserts ($7 each, or three for $20) arrived on a big, beautifully arranged platter, all the better for communal munching. And such munching: a milk chocolate ganache biscuit bar with coconut sorbet and an addictive coconut-brittle wafer, a sort of over-the-top Twix bar; a napoleon of Scharffen Berger chocolate, fresh vanilla ice cream and blackberries marinated in sake; and, best of all, one of San Francisco's best and most unusual desserts, a frozen mousse of mascarpone cheese, ginger, and sugar pumpkin, bruléed on one side and served with equally bruléed fresh figs.

Anthony Pidgeon

Location Info


Eos Restaurant and Wine Salon

901 Cole
San Francisco, CA 94117

Category: Bars and Clubs

Region: Haight/ Fillmore


Candlelight, Cool Jazz: Eos offers a dazzling selection of vintages.901 Cole (at Carl), 566-3063. Open Monday through Wednesday 5:30 to 11:30 p.m., Thursday through Saturday 5:30 p.m. to midnight and Sunday 5 to 10 p.m. Parking: difficult. Muni: N, 43. Noise level: lively downstairs, tranquil upstairs

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The wines are showcased every Wednesday from 6:30 to 8:30 p.m. in the form of Wine Flights, evenings devoted to particular regions or varietals with guest speakers and, of course, sipping galore. (The December 29 flight, a champagne extravaganza featuring Taittinger, Salon, and other breeds of bubbly, sounds particularly festive.) Each flight, which varies in price from $18-40, continues through the week sans speakers.

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