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A dessert of creamy coconut-infused tapioca ($7), served in a martini glass with glazed banana slices on top and (no kidding) two strands of candied spaghetti projecting outward, is delicious and reassuring. Le Colonial's wine list is extensive, concentrating mostly on the local and Gallic product with a few vintages from New Zealand, Australia, Chile, and South Africa thrown in.

Upstairs Bar at Le Colonial: Exotica, served up in an atmosphere of drowsy tropical elegance.
Anthony Pidgeon
Upstairs Bar at Le Colonial: Exotica, served up in an atmosphere of drowsy tropical elegance.

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20 Cosmo Place (at Post), 931-3600. Open daily 5:30 to 10 p.m., Thursday through Saturday till 11 p.m. Parking: possible (lot available). Muni: 2, 3, 4. Noise level: unobtrusive

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As befits an establishment rooted in a tradition of colonial imperative, service is attentive yet discreet, with just enough savvy and knowledge to put you at your ease. After a Scorpion or two, the Trader would have felt right at home.

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