439 Powell (between Post and Sutter), 986-1160. Open daily 6:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. No credit cards accepted; reservations accepted for six or more only. Parking: Sutter-Stockton and Union Square garages. Muni: 2, 3, 4; Powell Street cable car. Noise level: basic
Sears serves lunch, too -- soups, salads, sandwiches, platters of roast beef, liver and onions, and the like. All of this is prepared and presented in a throwback-coffee shop ambience of pink, gold, plastic, and mirrors, lots of them, with a friendly counter down the side and pancake mix, T-shirts, and other memorabilia available to go. The terrific service is legendary, firmly in the starched-uniform, what'll-ya-have-honey tradition; as a customer, you're well taken care of. With such a heritage backing the place up, you shouldn't be at all surprised.