Home for the Holidays

Schroeder's

Desserts are impressive: a light, lovely German chocolate cake ($4) studded with coconut; a sacher torte ($4.50) rich with chocolate, whipped cream, and apricot jam; and, best of all, a buttery linzer torte ($4.50) densely packed with ground almonds and raspberry. Served beneath garlands of greenery and colored lights, the results are festive indeed. (Further accentuating the season will be the Christmas polka dinner party on Dec. 17 with Joe Smiell & His Bavarian Polka Band and the special holiday lunch and dinner menu on Dec. 23 featuring baked goose with dumplings and white cabbage.)

After dinner we strolled to Union Square. I guess everyone was at Costco buying drinking water and flashlight batteries and comparing Y2K survivalist strategies, because they weren't out caroling and shopping and putting another penny in the old man's hat. The City of Par -- er, Neiman Marcus Christmas tree looked very handsome, and in druidical acknowledgment I bought a truffle at the candy counter for a mere four bucks. Out on the street I couldn't remember where F.A.O. Schwarz was, and ended up in a SOMA loft watching dancers and drummers in black leotards; a buffet table to the right featured mineral waters, all different kinds of them. The Buddha, meanwhile, hasn't been seen since the '89 earthquake.

A Black Forest Christmas: Schroeder's gets festive in gemtlichkeit style.
A Black Forest Christmas: Schroeder's gets festive in gemtlichkeit style.

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Schroeder's

240 Front
San Francisco, CA 94111

Category: Restaurant > German

Region: Union Square/ Financial District

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240 Front (between Sacramento and California), 421-4778. Open Monday through Friday 11 a.m. to 11 p.m., Saturday 4:30 to 11 p.m. Parking: validated after 6 p.m. at 5 Star Parking (255 Clay). Muni: 1, California Street cable car. Noise level: festive

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That Thomas Wolfe, he was one smart fellow.

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