By Mollie McWilliams
By Molly Gore
By Pete Kane
By Pete Kane
By Anna Roth
By Alex Hochman
By Joseph Geha
By Anna Roth
Dal, Naan, and Thee
With all the millions of ducats investors are sinking into new restaurant projects and remodels, I wanted to draw your attention to one of my old favorites for over-the-top décor and darn good grubbin'. I was introduced to this pale pink painted Post (at Polk) Street gem by a generous be-turbaned cabbie: Tired of my complaints about local curries, he flipped a U-ie and plopped me down in front of Maharani. What he didn't mention in his gushing review of vindaloos and rogan josh was the Fantasy Room. Like a secret harem, this back dining room features raised platforms swathed in shiny fabric and piled high with pillows. Sequined swans and roaring lions greet you as you enter your opulent booth, where you can enjoy some of the best and most affordable San Francisco has to offer in a decidedly unique fashion.
San Francisco, CA 94109
Region: Hayes Valley/ Tenderloin
The two hottest of last year have hung the "gone fishing" sign. If you think Delfina is noisy now (and count me out of that crowd -- Harry was raised on rock 'n' roll!), try walking by sometime next week. Annie and Craig are closing the doors and doing a little demo work -- the final stages in their long-awaited expansion. The new dining room is ready next door, so there's just the matter of knocking a sizable hole in the wall. ... Joseph and Mary down at Globe took a couple of weeks for some R'n'R (recovery and rejuvenation). They'll be back to business by the time you read this, with some back-of-the-house and downstairs improvements to show off.
Personality Hotels welcomes its new bistro to the Metropolis at 25 Mason. Belon features a massive oyster bar and an extensive menu by chef Paul Arenstam. A selection of French favorites plus daily specials and fresh seafood make this a welcome addition to the Union Square dining scene. ... Ponzu has just thrown open its doors. Part of Kimpton's Hotel Serrano at 401 Taylor, the spot's tag line promises "eat - drink - lounge." Harry can get with that program -- providing the drinks are strong and chef John Beardsly's food is up to his usual high standards.
Every Silver Lining Has a Cloud
Ben Ulrich, San Francisco's most even-keeled tender-of-bar, passed away suddenly on Jan. 4. Ben, bespectacled and clad head-to-toe in Ben Davis black, poured me many a drink, from his early days at Julie's and Undici through to his longtime gig behind the rails at Stars. He had lately been forging ahead with a computer career and dabbling in music. A friendly face and a sincerely great guy, Mr. Ulrich will be missed by many, especially his lovely wife Cecily.
Know something Harry doesn't? E-mail Coverte@aol.com and sweep the dirt out from under the rug.
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