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Bandol

Comments (0) By Paul Adams Wednesday, Feb 2 2000

The wine list, with about 50 bottles, includes only a few token California wines. Most choices are from the sunny South of France: no Burgundy here, no Beaujolais, but some great Rhone reds -- Crozes-Hermitage is about as far north as it gets. Many of these are excellent, little-known wines; your server can guide you skillfully through the selection process. The service, by the way, is solid, knowledgeable, and smooth, though a little underpowered. It would be a boon if Bandol were able to hire another waiter or two as good as the ones it's got.

Dessert is a simple affair of $5. The baby profiteroles are both delicious and adorable, nestling icily in their dish, while the pear tart, accompanied by a seductive fromage blanc sorbet, provides more adult pleasures.

Location Info

Map

Bandol

431 Columbus Ave.
San Francisco, CA 94133-3901

Category: Restaurant > Fast Food

Region: Embarcadero

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Details

431 Columbus (at Stockton), 362-6251. Open Sunday through Thursday 11:30 a.m. to 10:30 p.m., Friday and Saturday 11:30 a.m. to 11:30 p.m. Reservations advisable. Wheelchair accessible. Muni: 12, 15, 30, 41, 45. Parking: There's a garage near Powell, if you can't find street parking. Noise level: loudish

More About

It's a shame Bandol suffers a degree of disparity between the excellent food and the awkward environment so pronounced as to make one ambivalent about eating there again. Chances are, though, the food will win customers despite the uncomfortable ambience. And, should the restaurant's owners decide to remodel again, more power to them.