Side Dish

Fuzion
Marc Valiani, Jody Denton's old partner at LuLu, and Gary Kurtz -- of Moose's and the Washbag -- are hoping to get their new North Beach spot opened by the end of March. The ill-fated Fuzio at 1548 Stockton wasn't the first location they'd had their eyes on, and then negotiations with the Chevy's people dragged on, but Jianna will now be reality. Expect a friendly full-service neighborhood spot with 75 seats, a raw bar, and a menu featuring Marc's "evolving American cuisine."

To All My Friends
There's a fresh fly in the soup that is the Western Addition: Matt Sturm and Leslie Shirah have teamed up to turn a fast- food outlet on the corner of Divis and Fulton into the hippest spot the 'hood has seen. Fly, Bar and Restaurant, declares the groovy sign, but that's as far as the Bukowski references go. Look for a pool table, light local-style grub served till late, and a wide selection of sangria recipes culled from Leslie's time in Florida.

Hold the Croutons
There's Blind Tiger's Steve E. at the bar, looking pretty good for the late hours he keeps, Annie and Craig in the corner having some fries before they head off to the newly expanded Delfina ... Sunday brunch at Zuni is a regular groove -- even more apropos than late-night steak for two at Globe and as right as paper straws in a Bloody Mary. But somebody was missing last Sunday. Ben Ceasar, the most appropriately named manager Zuni ever boasted of, has left the ranks to join the dot-commoners. My best to Ben -- and, excuse me, but are you going to use all of those pickled onions on your burger?

Harry's Helpful Hints (Revisited)
Just a little reminder to some readers of this column, and you know who you are. It is your responsibility, when you make a reservation, to take into account the time it will take for you to get to your dining destination and, if you didn't cab it, to park. Traffic is terrible and parking even worse, but that doesn't mean the restaurant is going to hold your table for an extra half an hour -- capice?

Buzz of the Week
Danny Olivella's B44 on Belden Alley -- a Spanish restaurant that doesn't serve tapas!

Know something Harry doesn't? E-mail Coverte@aol.com and sweep the dirt out from under the rug.