Silver Anniversary

Comments (0) By Matthew Stafford Wednesday, Mar 1 2000

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Bay Wolf's wine list is known for the small, hard-to-find producers that supply its pages. In addition to the expected French, Italian, and Spanish vintages there's a plethora of California and Oregon wines, adding up to a list of real depth with an equally well-rounded price range; you don't have to break the bank to sip here, but you can if you want to. There are cabs available, for instance, for both $20 and $175. Another plus is the nice selection of aperitifs, at $5 per glass.

For dessert we had pots of loose-leaf tea and three specialties. The chocolate bundino ($6.25), an Italian steamed cake, was big, spongy, boring, and on the stale side, but the sherbets of tangerine and blood orange ($5.75) took up the slack -- they were bracing, refreshing, and fresh. Best of all: Earl's Sweet Treats ($6.50), a platter of Lilliputian delicacies of high quality, including a barquette filled with pear puree and sweet cream, pound cake edged in lemon and ginger, a handmade, cocoa-dipped peppermint pattie, a slab of caramel ribboned with chocolate and almonds, a chewy, orangy macaroon, a chocolate-peanut cluster, and a tiny cookie earthy with cornmeal: yum.

Anthony Pidgeon

Yum: Bay Wolf pastry chef Earl Darny proffers a dessert.

Location Info

Map

Bay Wolf

3853 Piedmont
Piedmont, CA 94611

Category: Restaurant > Greek

Region: Montclair

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Details

3853 Piedmont (at Rio Vista), Oakland, (510) 655-6004. Lunch Monday through Friday 11:30 a.m. to 1:45 p.m.; dinner Monday through Thursday 6 p.m. to 8:45 p.m., Friday 6 p.m. to 9:45 p.m., Saturday 5:30 p.m. to 9:45 p.m., Sunday 5:30 p.m. to 8:45 p.m. Reservations: recommended. Mostly wheelchair accessible (bathrooms only partly accessible). Parking: possible. AC Transit: 6, 12, 57, and 59. Noise level: normal

More About

Service at Bay Wolf is crisp and knowledgeable; the mood is friendly and festive. Depending on the month -- and the weather -- the place might well be a little bit of Melrose on the Piazza San Marco.