Best Japanese Restaurant

After nearly 20 years in business, you'd think the wrinkles would be long since ironed out at Sachio Kojima's Kabuto, and you'd be correct. The experience begins with hot, steamed towels, then gets interesting as you contemplate an elaborate, three-volume menu that would take at least 10 visits to explore. You'll no doubt realize the daily specials are the best thing to order, after which you'll move on to the sashimi combination -- some 25 pieces of the freshest raw seafood you'll find in this city, from burstingly juicy octopus to glimmering red ahi to surreally tender giant clam -- and finally indulge in, say, a scallop kimiyaki in the most decadent egg-butter sauce this side of nouvelle cuisine. We can name sushi houses that are more popular (Ebisu), funkier (Blowfish), or more elegant (Kyo-ya). But if you want the best traditional Japanese food at the best price, no one will do you better.