As wonderful as Kokkari is, San Francisco has long been underserved when it comes to Greek food. But the picture brightened considerably last year with the opening of Chestnut Street's Mezes, which is named after the traditional Greek tapas-style appetizers. This warm, friendly spot delivers such classic Hellenic fare as dolmathes (stuffed grape leaves), spanakotiropita (cheese-spinach pie), and sublime mussels in ouzo broth. The tzatziki (yogurt-cucumber dip) can be unexciting, but the kolokithokeftedes (zucchini-potato cakes) are as seductive as a siren, not the least bit fatal, and a good deal tastier to boot.