Best Oshinko

From what we've seen, there's always a line at this traditional, brightly lit sushi house, and from what we've tasted, the wait is justifiable. The tempura is so crisp it bristles like autumn leaves, the dragon sushi (a sort of sushi casserole layered with unagi, smelt eggs, shiso, and tempura flakes) is better than most orgasms, and the tuna tataki salad in soy-jalapeño sauce is better than that. Still, the real standout is one of the simplest dishes -- oshinko, or Japanese-style pickles -- a bowl of Japanese cucumber and eggplant, cabbage, carrots, daikon radish, and beets, each pickled to a different degree of piquancy. No restaurant in this city delivers a more exquisite variety of tastes for a mere $3.50.