Bella Italia
Antica Trattoria
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Antica Trattoria
2400 Polk
San Francisco, CA 94109
Category: Restaurant > Italian
Region: Nob Hill/ Russian Hill/ Fisherman's Wharf
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Details
Insalata spinaci -- $7
Pappardelle -- $11
Maryland striped bass -- $17
Affogato -- $5.50
Panna cotta -- $5
Warre's 1976 Reserve porto -- $14/glass
Open for dinner Tuesday through Sunday from 5:30 to 9:30 p.m.
Reservations accepted
Wheelchair accessible
Parking: difficult; valet available ($8)
Muni: 19, 41, 45
Noise level: boisterous
928-5797
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The 60-item wine list features predominantly Northern Italian selections, with a dozen Southern vintages, two from Sardinia, and some token California product thrown in as well -- most of it affordable. You can choose from 13 wines by the glass.
And then there's dessert. Cheese and fruit make ideal palate-cleansers, especially when the cheese is pecorino, a sharp sheep's-milk variety that's as old as the Roman Empire. Antica serves a soft but still biting version with crisp, thin slices of pear and apple. (A glass of Warre's 1976 Reserve porto -- one of the venue's nine dessert wines -- is especially mellow alongside the intense cheese.) The plate paves the way for a marvelous, bountiful, sloppy affogato: a tall glass of chewy white-chocolate gelato, amaretto, hazelnuts, and espresso melting together into a rich, yummy mess. Best of all, though, is the panna cotta. This "baked cream" dolce has become as ubiquitous on local dessert menus as crème brûlée, but Antica's version is different from the usual feather-light ephemera: It's every bit as silky smooth as it should be, but adds a dairy-fresh pizzazz unknown to its competitors. The dish is especially wonderful with a candle stuck in its crown, as a chorus of birthday wishes mingles with the other celebratory sounds that float around this neighborhood bastion of superior food.
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