Fresh Start

"The last thing I'd expect on Union -- an oasis of civility in S.F.'s little L.A."

Comments (0) By Greg Hugunin Wednesday, Nov 28 2001

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Anthony Pidgeon

Mealtime at the Oasis: Merenda's cool trattoria/wine bar stands apart from Cow Hollow convention.

Details

Open for dinner every night except Tuesday from 6 to 9:30 p.m. (8:30 p.m. on Sundays)

Takeout available every day except Tuesday from noon to 9 p.m. (8:30 p.m. on Sundays)

Closed Tuesdays

Reservations accepted

Wheelchair accessible (except bathroom)

Parking: difficult

Muni: 41, 45

Noise level: low

Two courses -- $25
Three courses -- $35
Four courses -- $42
Giovanni Corino Dolcetto d'Alba -- $7/glass
Praxis pinot noir -- $6/glass
Devois des Agneaux syrah -- $8/glass
Canyon Wind cabernet sauvignon -- $8/glass

1809 Union (at Octavia)

346-7373

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For dessert, Michelle's profiteroles came dripping with a rich chocolate sauce but also drowned with ice cream. Though I'm rarely one to object to any amount of ice cream, the abundance here made it hard to appreciate the otherwise wonderfully textured pastry. My fig cake, on the other hand, was a study in restraint: a dense, luscious slice of heaven with slivers of fig, a puff of whipped cream, and dabs of slightly sweet red wine syrup. A pair of Italian nougat candies accompanied the check -- a nice touch. Despite the misfires, Merenda is clearly willing to go the extra mile for its customers. With a little more refinement, it could blossom into one of the best restaurants to open in San Francisco this year.