Belle Époque

Jeanty at Jack's

A A A Comments (0) By Greg Hugunin Wednesday, May 15 2002

By that time we'd consumed so many calories that dessert seemed like a chore. Still, we mustered the strength to order a delectable, paper-thin crêpe suzette drizzled with mandarin liqueur and orange butter, and a Domaine de Durban Beaumes-de-Venise muscat, whose delicate apricot fragrance (not to mention its taste) could entrance a person for hours. With that, we decided to take a tour of the new digs. Upstairs, a luminous purple sky burned through the atrium windows as sophisticates sipped aperitifs in the private dining rooms. It was one of those upper-crust crowds, as if pulled from a society scene by Armistead Maupin. Was that DeDe Halcyon Day over by the elevator, sporting the latest in pointy shoes? And who was her husband Beauchamp ogling, the busboy or the waitress? As we headed for the door, a customer laid the straight dope on a hostess.

"Frankly," she said, "the French Laundry just doesn't compare to Bistro Jeanty."

Anthony Pidgeon

Ooh La La: Step into the casually grand Jeanty at Jack's and you'll realize they just don't make brasseries like this anymore.

Location Info

Map

Jeanty at Jack's

615 Sacramento St.
San Francisco, CA 94111

Category: Restaurant > French

Region: Embarcadero

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Details

Tomato soup $6.50

Terrine de lapin $9.50

Soft-boiled-egg salad $8.50

Coq au vin $15.50

Egg noodles $4.50

Bouillabaisse $22.50

Crêpe suzette $9

693-0941

Open daily from 11:30 a.m. to 11:30 p.m.

Reservations accepted

Wheelchair accessible

Parking: available for $10 with validation at 555 California, otherwise difficult during the day, moderately difficult at night

Muni: 1, 10, 15

Noise level: moderate to loud

615 Sacramento (at Montgomery)

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I don't know whether that statement would hold up in court, but I do know that, room for improvement notwithstanding, Jeanty at Jack's is one of the best restaurants to open in the city during the past year. Skip the drive to Napa and cab it.