Winners and Losers

How an S.F. food critic sent a chill through the room at a national awards ceremony

Food FightWord is that on Friday, May 3, things got a little tense at the James Beard Awards in New York after ex-San Franciscomagazine editor Maile Carpenter snagged the prize for Magazine Feature Writing Without Recipes for her exposé on Chroniclefood czar Michael Bauer. Immediately following Carpenter's win, Bauer, who did not take the prize in his category, stepped up to the podium to accept an award on behalf of Chronicle journalist Janet Fletcher. He didn't say a word, and quickly returned to his seat. Other local winners included Aqua chef Michael Mina (Best Chef: California), Cindy Pawlcyn with Brigid Callinan (for their Mustards Grill: Napa Valley Cookbook), Chronicle editor Tara Duggan (for her food column), and San Jose Mercury News writer Carolyn Jung (for an article on Alice Waters).

Waters WorldSpeaking of the culinary diva, Ms. Waters quietly celebrated her birthday at Foreign Cinema on May 1 with her sister and brother-in-law. Chef Gail Pirie whipped up the organic oracle's meal, which finished off with pineapple granita and a candle.

What's in StoreThe new storefront at 2015 Fillmore is one sweet and sultry treat. Tango Gelato's second Bay Area location, in the former Rory's Ice Cream Shop, combines tango music and black-and-white photos with an Old World Argentine artisan gelateria. Drop by the first Sunday of any month, when the shop hosts the Argentine Tango Association for dance demonstrations. Another nearby newbie is the Grove at 2016 Fillmore. This second location, sister to Chestnut Street's casual cafe, has the same informal scuffed-wood floor, but during Harry's visit it also shared the original location's typical bottleneck at the counter. Down the Marina way, Italian dining room Savoia opened at 2355 Chestnut, taking over the Zinzino location. A remodel produced the current sleek, modern design, complete with handblown Italian glass and 85 seats. Chef Filippo Cannone's pizza and pasta courses are priced under $20.

Bohemian BreakfastsHarry can't say whether it's to drum up much-needed business or to soothe the neighborhood's hangovers, but the Mission District seems bent on making itself a brunch destination. Weekend noshers can now get their French-toast fill at Andalu (3198 16th St.), which serves brunch Saturday and Sunday from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m.; Luna Park (694 Valencia), serving Saturday and Sunday from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m.; and Foreign Cinema (2534 Mission), with all-day Sunday service from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. (followed by dinner).

 
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