Basque to the Future

Entrees didn't miss a beat. Our waitress won a few points by recommending the braised seafood and shellfish stew, a homey mélange of scallops, squid, fish, mussels, clams, and shrimp presented in a gorgeous stoneware bowl with a subtle red-pepper sauce. The Thursday special, rack of pork, consisted of a flavorful portion of loin served on the bone with roasted apple, well-buttered French green beans, and a tangy cider reduction. One of the more cosmic creations was sautéed squid with grapes and roasted fingerling potatoes, crowned with a thin slice of foie gras. Put simply, this preparation was a masterpiece: The grapes cut the luxuriousness of the foie gras, the squid was as toothsome as could be, and the dish came bathed in a sauce so irresistible I used an entire basket of bread to sop it up, then stared longingly toward the kitchen, wishing I could have more.

Desserts confirmed my suspicion that Piperade is one of the most exciting restaurants to open this year. An almond "nest" — a doughnut-shaped cake — arrived filled with honey ice cream, its sweetness balanced by the delicate flavor of the pastry. Better still was the gâteau basque, a melting, silky cake served with bright, fresh-tasting peach preserves. To finish, we made one last foray into new territory, sipping a dram of Charles Hours Jurançon, a fruity, spicy, barely sweet dessert wine.

Like my friend at the bar, I'll miss the old Pastis, but Piperade is a more than worthy replacement.