The Zest of Times

By this point, Rachel's eyes were glazing over in a manner I've seen among many dining companions during the past few years (in other words, the portions are massive enough that to-go boxes leave with all but the heartiest eaters). Still, she mustered the strength to help me polish off the budín de plátano, a spongy, barely sweet banana cake drizzled with caramel sauce, topped with a pillow of airy whipped cream. For a lighter finish, try the lucuma ice cream -- a traditional Peruvian sweet flavored with the rare (at least in these parts) jungle fruit whose flavor is difficult to describe. This cold treat is smooth, bright, a bit nutty, and delectable -- the kind of dish that, like so many choices here, hits the spot both for homesick Peruvians and for those of us who simply enjoy dining well.