A-List

Alternatively, you could start with the rainbow salad -- a whopping 22 ingredients arranged like dabs of paint on an artist's palette, then tossed into a neat heap by your server at the table. Wheat noodles, glass noodles, rice noodles, and even fried noodles meet (among other things) green papaya, fried garlic, tofu, shredded carrot, and a subtle tamarind dressing to produce a striking mosaic of textures and flavors. The restaurant always offers a few specials -- perhaps you'd like an appetizer of falling-off-the-bone spare ribs braised with a whiff of five spice, or a seasonal treat such as pea shoots stir-fried simply and perfectly with wine and garlic. Rice cookery is elevated to an art at Burma Superstar. Have a side of the barely sweet coconut rice, the Indian-style tan poi spiced with cinnamon and cloves, or the light Burmese fried rice with mung beans and onions.

See jyet kaukswer (try saying that five times fast) translates as slender, house-made wheat noodles tossed with roast duck and scallions, accompanied by a sweetened chili sauce. I like it, but prefer the bun tay kaukswer, a thicker, heartier wheat noodle slathered with minced chicken, split peas, and a coconut curry sauce with an initial mildness that morphs into a smoldering burn. Tender squid comes sautéed with a bright, flavorful mélange of chilies, garlic, lemongrass, and basil. String beans stir-fried with ginger and chili sauce are as fine as such a straightforward dish can be. The menu contains many other intriguing choices (I especially want to try the mango mutton with basil), and I would have sampled more of them, but during each of our three visits Elsbeth insisted on ordering the pork curry. I don't blame her: Cubes of pork come braised to spoon tenderness, then served with potatoes in a brilliant red sauce shot through with a galaxy of spices. Pair this dish with coconut rice and it adds up to one of the finest combinations I've had during a decade of dining out in this world-class food town.

Desserts provide a lovely finish. Choices include a humble duo of coconut and mango ice creams and more elaborate sweets like golden, crispy fritters filled with coconut custard, served with melon balls, mint, and a dusting of powdered sugar. After that, the only thing left to buy is your very own Burma Superstar T-shirt (try that at Aqua or Boulevard). I got one, so if you see a guy wearing one in New York, that'll be me -- or some other dude who left a piece of his heart at this undeniable gem of a San Francisco restaurant.