Best Artichoke Frittata

Lucca's looks satisfyingly like a movie set of a delicatessen for a Warner Bros. picture made in the '30s, so we're not surprised when we learn it's been in business since 1925. It's the kind of well-stocked place in which a few minutes' browsing will turn up any number of good things, such as high-quality Italian tuna packed in oil, imported mortadella, beautifully packaged biscotti, and (as the name implies) excellent house-made ravioli. But we're in love with its artichoke frittata, a dense, savory egg dish studded with bright-colored peppers in tiny dice and chunks of sweet artichoke hearts. At a rock-bottom $1.69, it makes a lovely brunch or light supper, cold or reheated, on its own or sided with a bit of ham, sausage, or, hey, mortadella.