Best Gnocchi

Anyone who's ever attempted to make gnocchi, the tiny Italian dumplings that have been eaten and enjoyed since the days of Imperial Rome, knows how easy it is to end up with something resembling small pellets of lumpy concrete. This never happens at Da Flora, a cozy, candlelit ostaria draped in wrought iron and red velvet, where the gnocchi are light as a cloud. Although gnocchi can be made of potatoes, semolina, flour, spinach, or some combination of the above, the main ingredient in Da Flora's version is sweet potato, which gives these tender tidbits an intriguingly earthy undertone. Sweet, chewy bacon and slender shards of Parmigiano add pungent accents to this silky dish, and the best part of the meal is dipping triangles of the house focaccia into the luscious sherry cream sauce that drapes the whole concoction. Available as an appetizer or a main dish. Cash only, please.