Best Taco

Enough already with the burrito talk: What we want is a good old no-commitment taco, a simple snack that pleasures and gratifies instantly with no lingering sense of guilt, remorse, or burgeoning waistline. Pancho Villa's Super Taco isn't the sort of taco you just pick up and scarf, however. Two soft, freshly made tortillas are piled high with shards of spiky marinated chicken, supple pinto beans, creamy guacamole, purple onion, shredded lettuce, sweet red tomatoes, sour cream, and a crowning bouquet of cilantro, rendering knife and fork a necessity. Supplement your custom creation with a visit to the salsa bar (up to eight salsas of varying intensity, plus fresh peppers, limes, and radishes); the ideal accompaniment is one of the pulpy, excellent aguas frescas in pineapple, cantaloupe, tamarind, or watermelon, ladled out of big glass jars. Satisfaction is at hand.