Rite of Night

As the tedium of daily life -- bills, chores, traffic -- permeates our existence, important truths can sometimes disappear, like all those parking spaces and high-paying jobs. The fact remains that we live in San Francisco, one of the planet's greatest cities, filled to the brim with beauty, culture, and history. Highfalutin civic pride aside, it's good to be reminded of the international melting pot that makes this city so damn wonderful, especially since we all pay out the wazoo to exist within its mere 49 square miles. Take a refresher course on how vibrant our town is: Head down to Portsmouth Square on any Saturday through early fall for the Chinatown Night Market Fair.

Our Chinatown, one of the biggest Asian enclaves outside of China, is a mystical place. The clatter of mah-jongg tiles, the aroma of kung pao chicken, and the views down narrow alleys that lead to dead ends combine to produce an unexpectedly delightful sensory experience, even amid the "Alcatraz Mental Ward" T-shirts, barkers pushing mediocre menus, and tourists walking two paces too slow. In the middle of this chaos, west of Kearny, lies historic Portsmouth Square, best known for housing the underground garage that's oh-so-conveniently close to the House of Nan King or cocktails at Tosca on those parking-deprived North Beach nights. The humble lot sometimes seems to fade away in all the excitement of the neighborhood action. But the square has a life of its own.

By day, the place is packed with seniors practicing tai chi, friendly chess matches, and children running about willy-nilly, but on Saturday evenings the plaza becomes a bustling, Hong Kong-inspired open market. Night markets are a vital part of everyday shopping in China and a colorful part of consumer culture there. Although ours may not be as gigantic as those in Kowloon or Guangzhou, with almost 100 booths there's still scads of atmosphere to soak in. Live entertainment blares and beckons: traditional Chinese music, fortunetelling, and (for those feeling cluttered) on-the-spot feng shui consultations. Vendors on all sides hawk their goods -- from jade jewelry to inexpensive apparel to the obligatory city souvenirs, and the strong scent of edible goodies is both unavoidable and alluring. Throngs of shoppers, locals and tourists alike, literally rub elbows to get to the objects of their affection.

While you jostle for position in front of the Jackie Chan DVDs and meditation balls, though, don't neglect the history of the square itself. Portsmouth Square was named after the U.S.S. Portsmouth, the ship commanded by Capt. John B. Montgomery (Montgomery Street's namesake), and is the site of many a historic event. Check out the markers around the square as you dodge shoppers and open your wallet. The market may be overwhelming, but it's a whole lot cheaper than the cost of a plane ticket to China.