Brewing Conversation

At a proper teahouse, tradition and communion are at least as important as the libation

A A A Comments By Silke Tudor Wednesday, Sep 3 2003

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Fong flushes water from the teacups into a second bowl and uses a small bamboo paddle to layer a strong oolong called Old Bush into the brewing pot.

"The five elements find harmony in tea. Wood is the plant; water grows the plant and makes the tea; fire heats the water and dries the tea leaves; earth makes the pot and grows the tea; and metal, which is the opposite of wood, is hidden in the clay, which helps the plant to grow."

Paolo Vescia

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Fong runs the bottom of the pot along the rim of the tea boat in a circular motion. In practical terms, this action releases pockets of water locked between leaves; in philosophical terms, it emphasizes the circle that is at the center of every tea ritual.

"The first steep, we do not drink," says Fong, pouring tea, which he allows us to smell but not to sip, into the water bowl (a vessel for undrunk tea). "First, we cleanse our minds. Now we start to feel our hearts. The tea is starting to release its aromatics, telling us the story of its life. There's a lot going on. There's a lot to discover in its smell."

The second steep is poured from the "fairness pot," a secondary vessel that ensures no one's tea steeps even a second longer than another's. We are invited to drink, slurping to aerate our palates.

"Now the tea is talking to you."

The drink is robust, notes of peach cut by a bitterness that touches lightly on every part of the tongue, with a floral undertone as complex as any wine. "Nowadays, people measure success by how fast they amass a fortune," says Fong, preparing a third brew. "But there is much more to life."

This second cup has fewer floral notes but is smoother, almost buttery. The finish is not as sharp, but lasts longer.

"When you brew tea you are bringing it back to life. There is a dialogue between you and the tea," explains Fong as we swirl and slurp our third cup. "You are learning about it, from it. This helps you enjoy the people with whom you are sharing tea. Sometimes the success of a tea ceremony can be measured by how little you talk -- if you can achieve a oneness with your guest and begin to understand each other without words."

As our third cup settles, our conversation relaxes, turning to the Fongs' new enterprise at the Ferry Building and his daughter's boyfriend. Shotguns are mentioned, laughter is shared, and I begin to feel as if I've known Fong for a lifetime.

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