Best Dim Sum

Dol Ho isn't the most elegant dim sum joint in town, but the savory noontime tidbits that emerge from its tiny kitchen are fresh, eclectic, and delicious. The cheerfully ramshackle storefront setting is all Formica and high-decibel, with savvy regulars vying for goodies from (occasionally sighted) carts: delicate shrimp-chive turnovers; noodle rolls stuffed with barbecued pork; rich, velvety turnip cakes; pork dumplings with carrots, cilantro, and a half-dozen aromatic herbs; a parfait of tofu, chicken meat, and fish cake wrapped in egg noodles; fatty, gristly chicken feet for the true connoisseur. The food's absolutely fresh because the carts are emptied almost as soon as they begin circulating the room, but you can request a specialty from the harried waitstaff or choose something from the steamers at the counter. Cash only.