Best Fresh Seafood

You can't get any fresher seafood than the crustaceans and fish pulled from the big tanks in the downstairs dining room at R&G, where the creatures swim around as décor until they're plucked out for your delectation. The lightly battered, disjointed salt-and-pepper crab is a don't-miss specialty. Fresh-steamed shrimp are served split, barely cooked through, and bathed in garlic. Other fresh fish include catfish, rock cod, and sea bass, available simply steamed or fried. Lobster, scallops, geoduck, squid, conch, clams, and oysters all come in many versions: with black bean sauce, ginger and onions, in garlic sauce, or in spicy X.O. sauce. There are also seafood clay pots, such as stewed spicy crab and the seafood combination (scallops, prawns, squid, black mushrooms, and vegetables). We love the flesh and fowl dishes, too, but the seafood at R&G is glorious.