Best Japanese Restaurant

There's something for everyone at Kabuto A&S, newly installed in smaller but brighter digs across the street from its longtime space on Geary. For lovers of classic sushi, there's no fresher fish or greater choice than that personally selected by chef Sachio Kojima and prepared in traditional nigiri style. There's a vast array of rolls, too, in both sliced norimaki versions and big hand rolls. Diners who want cooked dishes can choose from among dozens of hot and cold ippin-ryori (small plates), memorably including big sea snails stuffed with chopped garlic, tiny sweet clams steamed in sake, and the delicate steamed custard called chawan-mushi. For seekers of fusion fare, there's a separate, slightly wacky menu featuring original creations with names like Halloween (made with Japanese pumpkin) and incorporating unexpected ingredients such as mozzarella. The sake list is extensive and unusually well described, each one rated for level of dryness. Kabuto A&S is an ideal place to educate yourself about Japanese food and drink, deliciously.