Small World

The familiar Indian desserts we try are curiously unfamiliar in texture: the rasmali cake balls too dense, like miniature cannonballs, the pistachio kulfi custardy rather than icy. Elissa is more taken with Essence of India than I am. As we set off toward Dr. Hal, she compares the restaurant to a favorite place in Berkeley, Zatar, whose organic Mediterranean cuisine, heavily influenced by Middle Eastern and North African cooking, is served in a setting she finds intriguingly exotic. "It's like taking a tiny vacation."

The minivacation switches settings to the satisfyingly dark, grungy, and bohemian Odeon, in a less gentrified part of the Mission, where we cling to the comfort of a teeny table and sip White Russians. The room is packed. During the witty and often hilarious show (Dr. Hal's manner is droll, scholarly, and occasionally mildly obscene while answering all manner of questions from the audience), the bar flashes its eBay page on the screens overhead. The bids are up to $3,000; it's clear someone is interested in the Odeon's space. But the reserve has not yet been met.

Anthony Pidgeon

Rare Bird: An Indian place that's inexpensive and elegant?

Details

282-6444

Open for dinner Sunday through Thursday from 5 to 10 p.m., Friday and Saturday until 11 p.m.

Reservations accepted

Wheelchair accessible

Parking: moderately difficult

Muni: 26, 48

Noise level: low

Aloo gobi $5.95

Chana masala $5.95

Vindi bhaji $6.95

Mixed tandoori grill $14.95

Lamb bhuna $9.95

Cheese naan $2.50

Kheer $3

1007 Guerrero (at 22nd Street)

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More About

• Berkeley
• Lance Dean Velasquez
• Lower Haight
• Indian Food and Cooking
• Asian Food and Cooking

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