Best Biscuits

Pao de Queijo at Mangarosa

1548 Stockton (at Union), 956-3211, www.mangarosasf.com

There are lots of reasons to like this North Beach Brazilian-Italian eatery: its stylish and comfortable setting, tasty food (especially the homemade pastas and grilled meats), and affordable prices (its steaks are big enough for two), to name just three. But every time we've dined here, we haven't been able to resist getting at least one order of the pao de queijo, tiny, puffy, hot cheese biscuits listed under appetizers. They are appetizing indeed.