Best Dim Sum

Yank Sing

Rincon Center, 101 Spear (at Mission), 957-9300, www.yanksing.com

This large, efficient eatery in the middle of the large, efficient Rincon Center is less charming than the old, rickety Yank Sing of memory, but the dim sum on the rolling carts are still as fresh and appealing as ever. The carts appear at your table with blinding speed after you're seated, and it's tempting just to say yes to everything that's on them. But hold out for some specialties: not just bao, siu mai, and pot stickers, good as they are, but also shrimp and chive dumplings, soup dumplings (served with spoons so that you don't tear their delicate skins and lose their hot broth before they leave the basket), and fried mashed turnip cakes with ground pork. Sliced Peking duck, its crunchy skin on, is served with buns, slivered scallions, and plum sauce, a nice way to sample this fancy treat. Finish with the best don tot (tiny egg custard tarts in flaky pastry) around.

 
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