Best New Sandwich Concept

"All-in-One" at Giordano Bros.

303 Columbus (at Broadway), 397-2767, www.giordanobros.com

You've tried the Philly cheesesteak and the New Orleans po' boy and the Atlantic City sub and the Italian beef out of Chicago and other examples of regional American sandwich-making ingenuity; now there's a new hero/grinder/blimp/ hoagie in town. The "All-in-One" (conceived as an especially hearty example of the genre for the truck drivers of Pittsburgh, Pa.) takes the portable-meal concept one step further, cramming between the bread not only meat and cheese but also the stuff one usually enjoys on the side: fries and coleslaw. This makes for a notably vertical and unkempt sandwich, but the spicy-sweet chewiness of the Italian sausage against the hot crunch of the shoestring potatoes and the cool tang of the coleslaw, bound together with milky, melting provolone, is a wonderfully satisfying culinary experience. Although Giordano may be the city's first Pittsburgh-style eatery, the makings are purely local: meats from Molinari's, produce from Sbragia, and bread from the Italian French Bakery that's ideal for soaking up all those distinct flavors.