Best Resurrection

Sears Fine Food

439 Powell (at Sutter), 986-1160,

When we left Sears Fine Food one morning without breakfasting there, depressed by its harsh fluorescent lighting, shabby, stained, gray industrial carpeting, and sticky plastic tablecloths, we feared it was on its last legs. But the venerable San Francisco spot (around since 1938) found a rescuer in a local restaurateur who tore up the carpet, revealing white tile; tore out the acoustical tile, revealing a high vaulted ceiling; and put in comfy chairs, homey antiques, and pleasant lighting. The traditional Sears specialties, notably the famous plate of 18 dollar-size Swedish pancakes, have been joined by an expanded breakfast and lunch menu, as well as a new dinner one. And the prices are amazingly reasonable, especially in the touristy heart of the city.

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