Best Soup

Acqua Povera at Brindisi Cucina di Mare

88 Belden (at Pine), 593-8000, www.brindisicucina.com

The name means "poor water" (something like the legendary stone soup), but it's ironic in this instance. At Brindisi, home of many good things to eat, this compulsively edible and satisfying soup comes in a huge bowl. It's a shiny broth full of rapini, white beans, brilliant green peas, and chunks of fried bread -- and you'll feel richer for having tried it.