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Din With Dinner

Visiting the same place two nights in a row finds two different restaurants: one deserted and calm, the other crowded and riotous

Impala's diverse décor includes a 
mosaiclike wall, a DJ alcove, and a huge 
framed mirror that's easy to get lost in.
James Sanders
Impala's diverse décor includes a mosaiclike wall, a DJ alcove, and a huge framed mirror that's easy to get lost in.

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Impala

501 Broadway (at Kearny)
San Francisco, CA 94133

Category: Bars/Clubs

Region: North Beach/ Chinatown

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Mojito $8

Tortilla soup $5

Quesadilla $9

Brisket barbacoa $12

Flank steak $15

Grilled corn $6

Flan $6

982-5299

Open Sunday and Monday from 5 to 10 p.m., Tuesday through Saturday until 11; the bar is open until 2 a.m.

Reservations accepted

Wheelchair accessible

Parking: difficult

Muni: 12, 15

Noise level: moderate to excruciating

501 Broadway (at Kearny)

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The menu was devised by Executive Chef Kerry Simon, whose sobriquet as the "Rock 'n' Roll" chef seemed more apropos, tonight, than his tutelage at the Culinary Institute of the Arts and under Frenchmen Andre Soltner and Jean-Georges Vongerichten. His current gig opening "Simon at the Hard Rock" in Las Vegas probably precludes any time spent in Impala's kitchen (though he might want to fly in for a little recalibrating).

I can't comment further on dessert. When we tried to order it, we were told the kitchen had closed at 11, a few minutes earlier, and I guess there was nobody around qualified to cut a piece of tres leche cake or scoop out a sorbet. They would have to sell nine $2 beers to make up for us, but the evening was still young.

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