At Home on the Range

S.F.'s ideal restaurant -- delicious food and imaginative drinks in a modern yet cozy space

Range saves one of its best treats for last: On both visits I've been thrilled to see a soufflé on the dessert menu. I thought nothing could be better than the slightly savory soufflé made from the French triple-cream Brillat-Savarin cheese and served with strawberries touched with balsamic and shreds of faintly licorice-y tarragon I had last time, but I was equally beguiled by this night's eggnog soufflé served with a tall shot glass of whipped cream-topped hot chocolate. (I wish I could have tried the quince soufflé with ginger and nutmeg panna cotta that, our excellent server told us, was offered on the menu in between my two visits.) My father's perfect-meal preference came true, as Jerry preferred his roasted green apple galette topped with crunchy walnut streusel, sided with vanilla bean ice cream and topped with a yummy rum butter caramel sauce, and Grace adored her chocolate pot de crème, whose whipped cream was cinnamon-flavored, served with several tiny macaroons.

A Seductive Glow: The main dining room at 
Range.
James Sanders
A Seductive Glow: The main dining room at Range.

Location Info

Map

Range

842 Valencia
San Francisco, CA 94110

Category: Restaurant > California

Region: Mission/ Bernal Heights

Details

Goat cheese and sorrel pasta $10

Glazed pork ribs $10

Bavette with potato gratin $20

Pork rack with hominy $19

Oven-braised pollock $18

Eggnog soufflé $7

Green apple galette $7

282-8283

Open for dinner Sunday through Thursday from 5:30 to 10 p.m., Friday and Saturday until 11.

Reservations accepted

Wheelchair accessible

Parking: difficult

Muni: 26, 33

Noise level: high

842 Valencia (at 19th Street)

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In a spirit of happy excess, we lingered over a shared cheese plate -- Petit Agour, a semihard French sheep's milk variety served with a poached pear and toasted pine nuts. I'd had such a good time with Grace and Jerry that I envisioned many other meals with them: For an instant, I wished they could all be at Range.

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