Shock and Awe
Scott Howard offers superb white-tablecloth food on bare wood tables
My second meal, with Steve and Mary, was graceful indeed: the most elegant and witty dish the tartare with apple sorbet; the most luxurious a lobster salad with truffles, blood orange, and tarragon -- or was it the pork belly with salsify, black pepper gastrique, and pears (which Mary called "the best bite of fat I've ever had in my mouth")? Or the sweetbreads with smoked bacon on potato purée with truffled Madeira sauce? The venison with turnips, juniper, and hedgehog mushrooms?
Our amuse-bouche was a morsel of seared lamb loin on pickled black trumpet mushrooms, which rhymed with my main course of rare lamb loin served with a palette of garnishes, to use singly or in concert: shredded picholine olives, a heap of orange saffron, an unexpected dab of watercress purée. The desserts (a chocolate napoleon, a sundae, and a quartet of pear confections) seemed not quite up to the standards of what went before -- or perhaps we were just too sated.
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Scott Howard
500 Jackson St.
San Francisco, CA 94133-5105
Category: Restaurant > American
Region: Embarcadero
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Details
Hamachi tartare with apple sorbet $14
Pork belly with pears $10
Sweetbreads with smoked bacon $12
Tasmanian sea trout with oysters $20
Venison with turnips $22
Baba au rhum $9
956-7040
Open for dinner Monday through Thursday from 5:30 to 10 p.m., Friday and Saturday until 10:30 p.m., and Sunday from 5 to 10 p.m.
Reservations accepted
Wheelchair accessible
Parking: valet, $10
Muni: 12, 15, 41
Noise level: moderate
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Mr. Howard, who charmingly admits he left his last post, Fork in San Anselmo, to create a name for himself in San Francisco, is devoted to getting the best out of each of his spectacular ingredients. And he does so in an almost unsettling setting reminiscent of a plush ski lodge, which presents white-tablecloth food on place mats over bare wood. Call it the shock of the nude.
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