An Omnivore's Dilemma

Meat two ways: pricey barbecue at T-Rex, bargain Moroccan at Tajine

The plump, perfect round of phyllo dough dusted with powdered sugar reveals a tasty, moist stuffing of shredded chicken, ground almonds, and eggs. My stewed chicken may have been cooked in one of the conical tajines that decorate the open kitchen — which takes up a big chunk of the storefront, leaving only enough room for four cramped tables for two — but it comes to the table already plated, a thigh and leg topped with preserved lemon shreds and olives, swimming in saffroned juice. A heap of fluffy couscous is topped with nicely gamy, tender lamb chunks, carrots, zucchini, and potatoes; it reminds me of the little couscous places I'd frequent as a student in Paris. The warm, crusty, delightful Moroccan bread is perfect for sopping up juices. I love this food, so much so that I'm almost willing to forgive the harsh light pouring down on us from decorative Moroccan wrought-iron lanterns (and I don't ask whether the meat is raised humanely and antibiotic-free). I admire a big bowl of harira, fragrant lentil soup, brought to an adjoining table. It looks like a meal, and it's only $3.50. We sip sweet mint tea from small glasses.

Tiny and Tasty: Tajine has room only for tables, but its flavor is huge.
James Sanders
Tiny and Tasty: Tajine has room only for tables, but its flavor is huge.

Location Info

Map

T-Rex Barbeque

1300 10th St.
Berkeley, CA 94710

Category: Restaurant > American

Region: West Berkeley

Details

T-Rex Barbeque

Pork ribs half rack, $14/full rack, $28

Celery root mashed potatoes $6

Corn bread $5

Tajine

Chicken bastilla $7.50

Chicken tajine $9.50

Lamb couscous $9.50

Pot of mint tea small, $2.50/large, $3.50

T-Rex Barbeque, 1300 Gilman (at 10th St.), Berkeley, (510) 527-0099, www.t-rex-bbq.com. Open Sunday through Thursday from 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m., Friday and Saturday until 11:30 p.m. Reservations accepted for parties of six or more. Wheelchair accessible. Parking: easy, free lot. Noise level: moderate to high.

Tajine, 552 Jones (at O'Farrell), 440-1718. Open Sunday through Wednesday from noon to 10 p.m., Thursday through Saturday until 11 p.m. No reservations. Not wheelchair accessible. Parking: difficult. Muni: 27, 38. Noise level: moderate.

Related Stories

More About

When we say we'll try both the dessert offerings, baklava and shpakia (another honeyed Moroccan pastry, tubular and dusted with sesame seeds), our server again insists on saving us money: "They come two to a plate," he says, "so I'll just give you one of each."

« Previous Page
 |
 
1
 
2
 
All
 
My Voice Nation Help
0 comments
 
©2014 SF Weekly, LP, All rights reserved.
Loading...