Home on the Range

We're wowed by the New American cooking served at the Mission's snug Maverick

Anita had hesitated between the Idaho white trout and a ravioli dish that sounded so good we decided to share it as a second course. They'd thoughtfully plated it for us: two tender ravioli each, filled with fromage blanc and Meyer lemon confit, dressed with strands of red dandelion and jeweled with emerald-green fava beans.

I could find no fault with the mains that followed. I enjoyed the trout, served lightly sautéed under a blanket of sautéed ramps and lots of chewy oyster mushrooms, with cornmeal "croutons" that were like perfect toy blocks magically made of grits. The creamy grits under Peter's fried chicken, a leg and lovely moist breast of Rocky Jr. free-range chicken, were equally magical in their beige cloak of giblet gravy. I wanted another crack at that chicken, charmed as I was by my own pink seared duck breast surrounded by potato gnocchi sprinkled with prosciutto, with a triple salute to peas: set on a bed of sweet pea coulis, adorned with whole peas, and under a thatch of pea shoots.

Samuel Maverick would have been proud of this American eatery.
Angela Poole
Samuel Maverick would have been proud of this American eatery.

Location Info

Map

Maverick

3316 17th St.
San Francisco, CA 94110

Category: Restaurant > American

Region: Mission/ Bernal Heights

Details

www.sfmaverick.com. Open for dinner Monday through Thursday from 5:30 to 10 p.m., Friday and Saturday until 11 p.m.; brunch Saturday and Sunday from 10:30 a.m. until 3 p.m.; Sunday supper from 5 to 9 p.m. Reservations accepted. Wheelchair accessible. Parking: street, difficult. Muni: 14, 22, 26, 33, 49, 53. Noise level: high.

Beet and avocado salad$9

Fried baby artichokes$10

Cincy barbecued ribs$8

Grilled rib-eye steak$28

Ravioli and fava beans$16

Southern fried chicken$18

Chocolate tart$7

Maverick
3316 17th (at Mission), 863-3061

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We were replete, but still seducible by a dense, dark Scharffen Berger chocolate tart in a cookie crust, a strawberry-rhubarb crumble with vanilla ice cream and a sprinkling of mint that brought to mind the flavor of the tiny drink we'd been treated to a couple of hours earlier, and a beautifully garnished plate of Oregon goat milk gouda served with thinly sliced ripe pear, toasted cranberry walnut bread, and a swirl of honey. I was as dazzled by Maverick as old Sam would have been.

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