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Closer Than Italy

Continued from page 1

Published on June 12, 2007 at 4:22pm

When I say that a place is a neighborhood restaurant, I don't mean that it's not worth traveling out of your own neighborhood to visit. The fact that it serves its own locale well is indeed one of its attractions — at Gialina, they tell you, "If you live in the neighborhood, call before you leave home, and we'll hold you a table," which is part of the reason I saw several families with young children both times I visited. Everything we had at Gialina was extraordinarily good. And Glen Park is so much closer than Emilia-Romagna!

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