No Sign of the Colonel

Of our three mains, only one, I think, is really stellar: the cast-iron sea bass, a carefully cooked piece of flaky fish, slicked with a bit of salty tapenade, topped with cherry tomatoes, perched over a bed of fresh corn on a plate swirled with saffron and beet purée. The night's "the devil wears pasta" is underwhelming: silky ribbons of fresh pasta whose spicy Italian tomato sauce is pretty bland, though prettily topped with torn basil leaves. My inside-out burger is kind of a stunt: two grass-fed beef patties encase a layer of bun, the whole topped with melted Tillamook and caramelized onions. It tastes OK, but not great. The crispy-edged, twice-cooked, smashed baby potatoes alongside, however, are great.

A rerun of the excellent beignets and the almost-molten-hearted brownie are joined on the table by berries (black and red, lightly touched with balsamic vinegar) on a bed of sweetened whipped ricotta.

Jen Siska

Not so fast! Spork is designed for comfort rather than turnover.

Location Info

More Mission/ Bernal Heights Restaurants

Map

Spork

1058 Valencia (at 21st St.)
San Francisco, CA 94110

Category: Restaurant > California

Region: Mission/ Bernal Heights

Photos

Details

643-5000, www.sporksf.com. Open Monday through Thursday from 6 to 10 p.m., Friday and Saturday until 11 p.m. Closed Sunday. Reservations not accepted. Wheelchair accessible. Parking: street, difficult. Muni: 14, 26, 67. Noise level: moderate to high.

Cubed ahi and farro $12

Smoked trout croquette and beets $11

Bibb salad $7

Lobster with corn and peas $22

Steak stroganoff $18

Sea bass with corn and tomatoes $19

Beignets $6

1028 Valencia (at 22nd Street)

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More About

• Harland Sanders
• Seafood
• Foods

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The ghost of the Colonel has been exorcised.